Cleaning and/or disinfecting tools that contact hostas

Discuss Hosta Virus X and share pictures and information on this ever increasing threat to hosta growing.

Moderator: Chris_W

Cleaning and/or disinfecting tools that contact hostas

Postby Chris_W » Jul 08, 2006 1:39 pm

The great debate is on about the best way to clean and/or disinfect your tools when working with hostas, and here are some suggestions and recommendations for you, along with some thoughts on how HVX is spread on tools.

Shovels: When digging up hostas, especially older/larger ones, you invariably cut into the roots. If your hostas are growing in close proximity to each other there is also the real possibility that when you dig up one plant you are cutting right through the roots of a neighboring plant. If one plant is infected and in the process of digging it you cut through a healthy plant's roots you could very quickly and easily spread the virus to the healthy plant. So to prevent this sap transfer when digging out infected plants we suggest:

1) Dig from the side that is farthest away from any other plants, 2) Dig closer to the crown of the infected plant, and/or 3) Consider digging with a spading fork instead. These have a reduced surface area and instead of cutting out plants they pry out plants, therefore reducing the amount of cut, root to root contact as compared to shovels.

When you are done digging a known infected plant you will definitely need to thoroughly clean off your digging tools. You must remove as much of the plant sap as possible, which means scrubbing and wiping off the surface of the shovel or spading forks, preferably with disposable rags or towels. You may also want to disinfect the tools to further reduce the chance of virus remaining, especially if you were digging and cutting into a highly infected plant.

Cleaning can be done with just about any household cleaner, with the focus on removing the dirt and plant sap. If the plant sap is removed, so should the virus. Disinfecting can be done by soaking in bleach or lysol (or other known virucidal cleaners), although it is still important that you remove the dirt and sap before soaking. Most of the known, tough to kill viruses are neutralized after a 10 minute soaking in a bleach (1 to 2%)** or lysol solution, and although we aren't certain how long it takes to kill HVX this is probably a safe estimate, especially if you've taken steps to remove all the sap.

Again, if working with a known infected plant I recommend you thoroughly clean off the dirt and plant sap and also soak in a disinfecting solution. For everday use it is generally accepted that if you surface clean your tools this will neutralize and eliminate most of the plant sap, and without the sap this will greatly reduce the chances of spreading the virus.

NOTE: Simply dipping your shovel or pruners in a cleaning solution for a brief moment will not provide any protection from the virus. HVX is a highly stable virus so you must work to remove and neutralize the plant sap first, then soak to disinfect.

** When mixing bleach you want a 1 to 2% solution to kill viruses. Most bleach is sold in a 3% solution, so you would mix one cup of bleach with one cup of water. "Ultra" bleach is usually a 6% solution, so you would mix one cup of ultra bleach with three cups of water.

Pruners and scissors: When cutting into hosta leaves and scapes there is a large amount of plant sap transferred to these tools. More sap is transferred than even when digging, although digging into neighboring roots transfers the virus quite easily too. So cleaning your pruners or scissors between cuts must be even more thorough than cleaning shovels.

For this job one of the easiest ways to clean is using disinfecting wipes. Clorox wipes can be used to both remove the plant sap and provide some surface disinfection.

Another method is to use a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol or lysol and lots of paper towels. We purchase 90% rubbing alcohol and put that in a spray bottle for everyday scissor and pruner cleaning, but we also mix up a spray bottle using Lysol concentrate mixed at a very high rate and use that when working with known or possibly infected plants when we sample leaves for testing. Spray the tools down thoroughly and then wipe them off with paper towels. Soak another paper towel and cut through it with the tool to remove sap from the blades and hard to reach areas. Then soak one pair of scissors or pruners in one of these solutions while you use a second one to make the next cut.

If there is a possibility of having infected plants in your garden you may also want to avoid cutting any leaves and scapes for a while so you can keep a close eye out for possible symptoms.

Knives: Knives are often used to divide plants. Use a sharp knife to prevent getting sap into serrated edges, making them a lot easier to clean. Again, use rubbing alcohol, disinfecting wipes, or lysol, and lots of paper towels to make sure you are cleaning thoroughly between plants.

Hands: When working with hostas don't forget to wash your hands. Washing with soap and water will help, especially when working between batches of plants such as in a nursery, then wipe with disinfecting wipes. Disposable latex gloves are also handy, just make sure you change them or wash them between batches and between divisions when dividing multiple plants.

Final notes: HVX is only spread when plants are damaged and plant sap is released. You have to cut or break an infected plant, get sap on your tools or hands, then break or cut a healthy plant and transfer the sap to through the cut. So just touching plants will not infect them but because we do so much pinching, pruning, and dividing of hostas it is very important to clean methodically between plants.

When cleaning with bleach this can rust metal, so some people like to oil their tools afterwards to prevent rust. Bleach also evaporates quickly from a bucket, so mix a new solution very often or put a lid over the bucket when not in use to prevent it from evaporating too quickly..

I hope this helps to clarify things a little more :) Feel free to add your experiences to this or ask any questions!

Chris
Last edited by Chris_W on Jun 26, 2008 12:35 am, edited 2 times in total.
Image
User avatar
Chris_W
Administrator
 
Posts: 6509
Joined: Oct 05, 2001 8:00 pm
Location: Cement City, MI
USDA Zone: 5

Postby wishiwere » Jul 19, 2006 10:42 pm

Thanks Chris! It's always good to have a reminder. I'm printing this out and putting a laminate copy on my toolshed wall to read when I need to. It seems when you go weeks or months between trimming or digging or fall cleanup, you forget the little things. Like hand sanitation in the garden!

Well written! :D
Jane (from the middle of the Mitten state)
My hosta list: http://www.perennialnursery.com/forums/ ... hp?t=39540
wishiwere
 
Posts: 6029
Joined: Jan 05, 2004 11:05 am
Location: Central Michigan
USDA Zone: 5

Postby sugar » Jul 22, 2006 5:21 am

The advice on removing a sick plant is very usefull .. I would never have thought about the possibility of infecting healthy plants around an infected plant by the roots...

Wouldn't it be a good idea to destroy the infected plant with a herbicide first, eg applying roundup on the plant with a pencil or a brush. The plant will dy and quickly dry out (because the roots are no longer active) .
After two months you can take out the plant without any risk because there is no sap in the plant any more, and the virus is dead :cool: ...
User avatar
sugar
 
Posts: 503
Joined: Jul 18, 2006 9:20 am
Location: Belgium

Postby Chris_W » Jun 26, 2008 12:51 am

A quick update about cleaning solutions:

We are now buying cleaning solutions from a hospital supply company. I can get Lysol disinfecting solution in a gallon concentrate for around $20 and Lysol I.C. (infection control) in a foaming spray for about $3.00 a can. The gallon solution makes 256 gallons of concentrate, and it is specifically designed to kill viruses in the presence of organic matter. The foaming spray will kill viruses on a cleaned surface. Then you can also buy the towelettes that are a strong cleaner which will kill viruses but shouldn't be used on skin. I see them in tubs at the grocery store to wipe down the shopping cart handle, and you can buy then pretty inexpensively from hospital suppliers.

Another note about bleach:

I have learned that bleach is not particularly effective at killing HVX, especially if you only dip or spray it on. To kill viruses you need about a 1 to 2% bleach solution - but bleach is normally sold in a 3% solution. So when using bleach to disinfect you need to mix only one cup of water with one cup of bleach, and you need to remove the dirt and sap first. Ultra bleach is often 6%, so that would be mixed at a rate of one cup of bleach to three cups of water.

Hope that helps to clarify the issues about bleach.

Chris
Image
User avatar
Chris_W
Administrator
 
Posts: 6509
Joined: Oct 05, 2001 8:00 pm
Location: Cement City, MI
USDA Zone: 5

Postby steg » Jun 26, 2008 1:59 pm

Hey Chris.

Quick question about where you heard the bleach wouldn't take care of HVX. Your probably right that it may not work well in you only dip your tools in it. However, if you do soak them they should be fine.

Someone asked Mark Z. that question at his talk last weekend. He indicated that soaking in bleach would be enough to take care of the problem. I can't remember if he said 30 sec or 30 min (sorry). I usually go with a half hour or so. However, even according to the directions for kitchen or bathroom cleaning it says to soak 10 min.

I can see a problem if you don't get the dirt or residual stuff off first. The bleach (or Lysol) won't penetrate if not given enough time.

Can I ask what is the active ingredient in the Lysol? I'm just curious and would like to make sure I keep things clean around here. I may do both now, just to be sure :D

Thanks,
Mike
User avatar
steg
 
Posts: 586
Joined: May 21, 2008 9:48 pm
Location: Worthington, OH
USDA Zone: 5

Postby Chris_W » Jun 26, 2008 2:29 pm

Hi,

The bleach information was from Agdia and others but I've been discouraging people for years about just dipping tools in cleaning solutions since the most important part is to remove the plant sap.

Lots of people have been saying that a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) would work, but that's not effective enough against viruses, especially a virus that is as tough as HVX. Some bleach is already quite diluted right out of the bottle, so diluting it a lot more can be too weak. Also, bleach has little effect as a disinfectant in the presence of organic matter.

The lysol I'm using is a quaternary ammonium solution used for hospital disinfecting. It is a viricide, fungicide, and bacteriacide, and it is effective even in the presence of organic matter.

Here is an interesting fact sheet about laboratory disinfectants.

http://ehs.uky.edu/biosafety/disinfectants.html

Dr. Lockhart is also doing research on cleaning tools, and hopefully we will have some results that we are able to discuss in the near future. For now he is still compiling things.
Image
User avatar
Chris_W
Administrator
 
Posts: 6509
Joined: Oct 05, 2001 8:00 pm
Location: Cement City, MI
USDA Zone: 5

Postby steg » Jun 26, 2008 2:51 pm

Thanks Chris.

I'll try to read some more tonight. I look forward to seeing what Dr. Lockhart finds. You can classify me as a science nerd/geek.
User avatar
steg
 
Posts: 586
Joined: May 21, 2008 9:48 pm
Location: Worthington, OH
USDA Zone: 5

Postby wishiwere » Jun 26, 2008 2:53 pm

All very interesting...thanks for sharing the info! :)
Jane (from the middle of the Mitten state)
My hosta list: http://www.perennialnursery.com/forums/ ... hp?t=39540
wishiwere
 
Posts: 6029
Joined: Jan 05, 2004 11:05 am
Location: Central Michigan
USDA Zone: 5


Return to Hosta Virus X Forum

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

cron